A Look at Marlene Dietrich and Her Trailblazing Modern Style
The German siren was a trailblazer in pushing the boundaries of fashion's gender constructs, stood firm for her political beliefs, and captured the world's imagination.
Marie Magdalene “Marlene” Dietrich was born in 1901 in Berlin, Germany. Her father was a military officer who passed when Dietrich was young, and she and her sister were first tutored at home in ballet, violin, and piano. This musical education inspired the young Dietrich to work toward being a violinist, but a wrist injury in her teenage years kept her from pursuing that path—much to the film industry's benefit. Dietrich began acting in small roles and eventually landed a part in The Blue Angel, which capitulated her to Hollywood. Among her most notable films, especially during the 1930s and '40s, were Shanghai Express, I Love a Soldier, and Manpower.
At the onset of World War II, Dietrich spoke out against the Nazis of her home country and eventually became an American citizen in 1939. Her performances for Allied troops and aid in selling war bonds led to Germany denouncing her, but it is estimated that she helped raise more than a million dollars for the war effort.
The femme fatale, who focused on singing later in her career and was revered for her voice's deep register, was also known for her captivating and alluring personality that led to her many love affairs—with both men and women. Greta Garbo, Frank Sinatra, Mercedes de Acosta, Gary Cooper, and Jimmy Stewart (to name a few) were all counted among her partners. She married Rudolf Sieber (whom she met on the set of A Love Tragedy) in 1923, but they were separated for most of their marriage, despite not divorcing until 1976.
Many of her writings and journals, recently released by her daughter Maria Riva 25 years following her death, detail her many romantic encounters. Billy Wilder once said that Dietrich was an "incurably romantic soul," and her close friend and confidante Ernest Hemingway famously said, "If she had nothing more than her voice, she could break your heart with it." Dietrich also paved the way for androgynous style, often dressing in menswear, but oozing such a femininity while doing it (and famously claiming she only dressed for herself, which only added to her appeal) that her style continues to inspire fashion trends today.
1930
Dietrich, the German-born actress, poses in a scene while filming Morocco and oozes allurement in a black one-piece and feathered wrap.
1932
From the film directed by Shanghai Express directed by Josef von Sternberg, Dietrich commands the camera while wrapped in a fur jacket and sporting a pressed hair style.
1932
Here, Dietrich poses as Madeline in the film Shanghai Express. The costumes—including this spectacular feathered dress—were created by Travis Banton.
1933
Dietrich sits for a portrait and proves maximalism, thanks to her stacks of jeweled bangles and bracelets, is still alive and strong.
1935
The actress and singer designed her own clothes and was very inspired by the fashions of the early 1900s. Here, she is photographed wearing a driving outfit and matching hat.
1935
In a still from the film The Devil Is a Woman, which was adapted from the book La Femme et Le Pantin by Pierre Louÿs, Dietrich embodies her singular sultry gaze.
1935
Dietrich forged the way for mixing men's and women's wear during this time and equally capture the fascination and admiration of all genders with her sexy confidence.
1935
The German seductress relaxes in a lawn chair in a top-notch ensemble: a sweater, play shorts, and sky-high pumps.
1935
Dietrich, who denounced Hitler and, as a result, was ostracized by the administration of her home country, eventually became an American citizen. Here, she strolls down the street in what can only be described a killer outfit.
1936
Leaving Victoria station by car, Dietrich, who co-starred beside notable Hollywood actors like Charles Boyer, Fred MacMurray, and John Wayne, fixes a sultry gaze outside the window while wearing her signature fur, bold lip, and tilted hat.
1936
Dietrich relaxes on the set of Richard Boleslawski's The Garden of Allah while smoking a cigarette and looking the part of chic starlet in rolled pants and a draped turban.
1937
Dietrich and husband Rudolf Sieber, whom she married when she was 22 years old, board the Berengaria cruise liner in Southampton, both looking the part of dapper travelers.
1937
Dietrich, pictured here as the epitome of European elegance, is escorted by a porter into a fashion house in Paris draped in an almost floor-length fur coat with a wide-brim hat.
1937
A bejeweled and feathered headdress designed by Travis Banton for the film Angel, which was directed by Ernst Lubitsch, only adds to Dietrich's enticing gaze.
1937
Known for her many romantic dalliances with the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Joseph F. Kennedy, and Jean Gabin, Dietrich was outwardly confident and glamorous but is said to have struggled with insecurities and self-doubt her entire life.
1937
Here, in a scene from Angel, Dietrich, who officially became an American citizen in 1939, wears a black evening gown with a metallic braided accent.
1937
Here, a classic suit and neck-tie blouse is given a modern spin, thanks to Dietrich's singular style. Take note: Any traditional ensemble can benefit from an oversize cocktail ring.
1938
Ernest Hemingway and Dietrich return from a holiday together. The pair, who started corresponding with each other when he was 50 and she was 47, remained close until his death in 1961.
1939
Dietrich and Erich Maria Remarque, one of her many lovers, attend the premiere of the film Juarez in Los Angeles. Dietrich wears a hooded dress, looking the part of mysterious and trend-setting starlet.
1940
Here, Dietrich poses for a studio portrait wearing her signature menswear. The formality of the black velvet suit set and heels are offset by her casual cigarette in hand.
Rachael Burrow is the Style Director at VERANDA, covering the latest design and market trends, from jewelry to fashion, tabletop to furnishings, and everything in between.
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