36 Hours
36 Hours in Barcelona
In the 30 years since the Olympics turned Barcelona into a tourist magnet, the pull of the city’s architecture and food culture has only grown stronger. So much so, that the Catalan capital has become a key battleground in Europe’s fight against overtourism. Not all initiatives to lessen the crowds have triumphed: A moratorium on hotel construction survived only a couple of years. But in other areas, the balance has shifted in favor of locals: tighter restrictions regulate Airbnb rentals and the size of groups allowed to visit the Boqueria market. Bike lanes now crisscross the city, and the restored Sant Antoni market is again bustling with fishmongers and butchers. Most strikingly, Barcelona’s “superblock” initiative has turned chunks of the city into car-free, pedestrian playgrounds.
Recommendations
- Casa Milà, with a new virtual reality tour, offers a crash course in Antoni Gaudí’s architecture.
- Sant Antoni market is a temple to local ingredients, with a weekly book market outside its gorgeous exterior.
- Suculent is where to go for some of the city’s best Catalan cooking.
- The Picasso Museum will steep you in Picasso’s work, on the eve of the 50th anniversary of his death.
- Moco Museum focuses on works by major modern artists like Basquiat, Hirst and Banksy.
- Basilica de la Sagrada Família offers an English-language Mass for an immersive look at Gaudí’s masterpiece.
- Parlament Street, a “superblock” urban-design experiment, is part of a pedestrian-only haven.
- Mantequerías Pirenaicas is an old-school spot for a long lunch (try the crisp-edged rice with sausage and duck).
- Gresca is an upscale tapas bar with a casual atmosphere.
- Especiarium, one of the newest bars in the Born quarter, has an intimate, lightly louche atmosphere.
- Pinotxo, in the Boqueria market, is a favorite local breakfast spot.
- Estimar is a homey restaurant with extraordinary seafood dishes.
- Enigma is the flagship creation of the chef Albert Adrià, formerly of the experimental fine-dining restaurant elBulli.
- Les Enfants Brillants, one of the city’s newest night spots, bills itself as a “high fidelity dance club.”
- Madre has leather accessories by the designer Manuel Dreesmann.
- David Valls is where to go for flowing, modern women’s clothing.
- Après Ski sells whimsical clothing, jewelry and other items.
- Chandal offers everything from fun children’s gifts to housewares.
- El Rei de la Màgia is one of the oldest magic stores in the world.
- Casa Sagnier is a 51-room luxury hotel in a building designed by the Catalan architect Enric Sagnier. The rooms combine Catalan and Nordic design, and many overlook the Rambla de Catalunya (doubles start at 200 euros, or about $201).
- Hotel Chic & Basic Born has all-white airy rooms with inventive lighting housed in an old palace. The location — across from the Ciutadella park on a lively corner of the Born — can’t be beat (doubles start at around 100 euros).
- Hotel One Shot Aragó 257 is the first Barcelona location for a Spanish chain that specializes in comfortable, well-designed rooms that feel posher than their prices. Its location near the Passeig de Grácia is excellent (doubles start at 75 euros).
- Try the lively Gràcia neighborhood for short-term rentals, which is removed enough from the tourist center but still convenient. To check that an apartment is legally registered, go to the Barcelona City Council’s website.
Itinerary
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