Pierburg 2E2 petrol leak and sticky waxsat... probably

Discussion in 'Carburettor' started by dub303, Dec 2, 2012.

  1. dub303 Forum Member

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    I have read many threads and 'googles' about the Pierburg 2E2 fitted to our 1989 Scirocco GT.

    We have 2 issues, 1st a fuel leak. Having had a poke around, with engine off, if I push the bit with the green arrow (see pic), fuel drips onto the manifold in the area marked with the green circle. I know very little, but this must be bad? is this an accelerator pump and is this the square bit above? Any advice welcome please.

    [​IMG]

    2nd issue, high idle and sometimes cuts out when idling when warm, but not always. Having read the guide and comments from Rubjohnny and EZpete (of course) I removed the waxstat (metal) and ran hot tap water through it then boiling water. As you can see in the pic, a string of silicone came out, wondering if that is from a previous owner siliconing sensors on a warped flange?
    Anyway, when removed, the pin was not proud of the mounting face (should it be 2mm?), but when boiled, was 6mm proud. I have not re-fitted it yet but when removing the hoses I was expecting to see water run out, but it was dry... does this mean the rubber grommet under the hedgehog is blocking it?

    [​IMG]

    Hope this all makes sense, I'm trying to remember relevant info on a subject I don't know!

    Cheers.
     
  2. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    I guess you've checked that the fuel leak isn't from the supply hose connection; so yes, that square thing at the front under the fuel hose is the accelerator pump mechanism. The bit you're pushing to make it leak is opening the (primary) throttle, which has a black plastic cam attached to it just near there, which operates the accel pump mechanism.

    You should definitely sort this out before you have an engine-bay fire; I can only guess that you'll find a leaking gasket or diaphragm, can't quite remember how it all looks inside there, but 4 screws and you'll see. Not sure where's best to get spares for that bit, you may have to buy a refurb kit for the whole carb, but I'll have a browse around online if I get a chance in the next day or two, unless you've already looked?

    Your waxstat seems to have lost some of its wax, the pin should be 2mm-ish proud of the flange face at 20C. I'm pretty sure a good ones pin will go to about 12mm proud of the flange face at 100C. It may still be enough to disengage the warm-up cam from the throttle mechanism if it gets a good coolant supply, but it doesn't sound like it is getting that, so investigate why that is first. Big waste of money fitting a new waxstat if it isn't getting its hot coolant.

    Not sure where that silicone 'worm' came from, but you need to hope there aren't any more. I think you must have a blockage somewhere for there to be no coolant loss when removing the waxstat, which may include the o-ring at the junction of inlet mani and head. Very unlikely that this isn't at least partially blocked, if it's still the one put there in Wolfsburg.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2012
  3. dub303 Forum Member

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    Thanks for the info EZ Pete. I have looked online for a waxstat but not accelerator pumps... not easy to find! I have just bought the whole carb off eBay, big gamble I know, but it will at least give me practice of taking one apart and hopefully the seller was telling the truth when he said it was running fine (as I say... big gamble, it's from a car he is breaking).

    I'll test the waxstat to see if it works any better than mine, as that one seems dud. I have re-fitted it and it's no better really.

    I'll also fit the accelerator pump with crossed fingers. Hope its an easy swap.

    I think the manifold is beyond my skills so if it's still running bad at that point, I'll throw in the towel!

    Thanks again.
     
  4. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    I reckon this is the bit that's possibly bust on your acc. pump.

    Couple of listings at that kind of price on Ebay.de. Here's the other.

    Where are you in the world?
     
  5. dub303 Forum Member

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    Never thought to look on german ebay, thanks for that. I read on some random camper van site that the red ones are best and that the black ones don't last... but I'll take one of these if the second hand one I've bought is rubbish.

    Do you have experience of fitting one? The exploded diagrams I've seen have all sorts of springs, clips, etc... will it all fly into the engine bay when I unbolt it?

    I'm in Stockport.

    EDIT: Now I know I can just buy the diaphragm, found this place that do them, but works out a few quid more than the german one!
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  6. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Yes I've fitted one, but too long ago to remember. I've just taken one off an old carb and took some piccies. Will host/post as soon as I can, but it seems quite straightforward. The diaphragm seems intact, can send it to you if your ebay one looks no good? It's a black one BTW.


    So, first thing to say is that the fuel in the float bowl is probably mostly going to pee out when you take this bit off, so have a little dish to catch it in, or a rag.

    4 screws out and the outer bit comes away. The gasket/diaphragm may stick to this bit, or the carb body, mine did the latter:

    [​IMG]

    Peel the gasket off the carb and you'll find the inner workings. The spring will probably fall out if the carb is in its normal orientation, the other bits may well stay put.

    [​IMG]

    Next bits out:

    [​IMG]

    Rubbery red bit out too, you probably don't need to remove this unless it looks damaged or dirty.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  7. dub303 Forum Member

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    Awesome! Thank you very much for this, looking forward to fitting it now, looks relatively easy. My eBay carb is marked as despatched, but I'm away this weekend anyway. I'll let you know how I get on.
    Thanks again for your help.
     
  8. dub303 Forum Member

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    So... eBay carb arrived and although generally way past it's best, the diaphragm inside it was intact. I removed the one from our 'rocco which was indeed split, so a good sign that we should be up and running soon.
    Well... Kind of. Replaced it this morning and the car wouldn't start, just turned over. Is this due to lack of fuel in there? What do I need to do now. Should I pump the accelerator whilst turning it over? The car is on a hill facing upwards (not sure if this makes any difference to what happens to the fuel), and I'll need to charge the battery when I get chance now. The car has been stood for over a week.
     
  9. dub303 Forum Member

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    For some reason the above post didn't appear in 'recent posts' so... Bump!
     
  10. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Assuming that the problem is just that the float bowl is empty, just keep turning it over for a minute and it should refill; but I guess you've already tried that, hence the flat battery?

    Edit: can you clarify, what have you changed, the accelerator pump diaphragm, or the whole carb?
     
  11. dub303 Forum Member

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    Just the diaphragm.

    It's the mrs' car, and she said it was cutting out and running bad hence not using it (plus, scared off by the fire hazard comment which was fair enough) so I assume any fuel in there leaked out. I don't know how these things work though. It is split along about a quarter of the diaphragm.

    I did 'pump' it to see where the fuel was coming out last week too with engine off.

    I turned it over once swapped for less than a minute when the battery started to go flat so stopped to charge it. I'll give it a go again tomorrow, just didn't want to keep doing it i case there was a better way.... Thanks again.
     
  12. dub303 Forum Member

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    Battery charged, turned it over and over and over..... Then started! Drives smooth like butter again now!

    Thanks for the help EZ Pete!

    On with the high idle now. The eBay carb came with a plastic waxstat. This was also not proud of the mounting surface (could see 2mm in the recess). As it is spare, I repeated the boiling water process and got he same 6mm ish, but pulled on the pin until it fell out. It then would extend to around the 12mm that you said was a good sign, so might try this one seeing as it is an easy swap. If that doesn't work, it's manifold removal time to swap the melted grommet... Might be brave enough to try it myself.
     

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