The Delight of the Indian Combo Platter Around NYC

Thalis are primarily found in South Asia, in countries that include India and Nepal — and very often but not always, they’re vegetarian. According to the Patel Bros. website, the ideal thali should have at least six dishes, each of which represents a single quality: sweet, salty, bitter, sour, astringent, and spicy.

According to K.T. Achaya in A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, the thali originated as a rice-cooking pot over 2,500 years ago, during India’s Vedic Period. Today it often refers to a stainless steel tray with a raised rim that holds six to ten small bowls called katoris. Each contains a single dish, while other things like flatbreads, fritters, sweets, and rice are placed atop. More recently, thalis have been served in indented trays or in the plastic rectangular receptacles often used in carryout operations.

Looking for where to find a great thali? Here are a few recommendations.

A tray with 10 dishes, condiments, and flatbreads. — The vegetarian thali at Sri Ganesha’s comes on an indented aluminum tray.

Vegetarian thali at Sri Ganesha’s Dosa House

In addition to chaats, rice dishes, and dozens of dosas, this king of the dosa parlors and one of the best restaurants in the metro area, offers a vegetarian thali ($17) that takes a bit of time to prepare. Naturally, it contains sambar, a dal dish, a bright red pickle, a plain potato dish, and all sorts of other goodies, including a heap of jaggery (unrefined sugar) to sprinkle on anything you want. 809 Newark Avenue, near Liberty Avenue, Jersey City, NJ

A round thali with eight dishes, flatbreads, and rice. — Golconda Chimney offers a thali based on three chicken dishes.

Non-veg thali at Golconda Chimney

Golconda Chimney offers a pair of lunchtime thalis (weekends, too) priced at $15, including a bottle of water. This one features three chicken dishes, including Mumbai-style fried chicken, a curry chicken, and chicken tikki masala. A pair of warm whole-wheat rotis lurk under the papadam. 806 Newark Avenue, at Liberty Avenue, Jersey City, NJ

A round metal tray with several dishes in separate cups. — Pork is the centerpiece of Gorkhali’s thali.

Nepalese pork thali at Gorkhali

The centerpiece of this thali ($16) is pork chile – thick chunks rimmed with fat, making for a rich repast. Plenty of vegetables and chile sauce nestle beside it, along with potatoes, a thin lentil soup, and simple steamed mustard greens. 160 Havemeyer Street, near South Second Street, Williamsburg

A black plastic container with indentations and a bread on the side. — The hot garlic naan in Bikanervala’s thali is fantastic.

Special thali at Bikanervala

This fast-food chain offers a vegetarian thali at all times. It features dishes from southern India, Mumbai, and Gujarat, and includes a choice of bread, two entrees, and a dessert. The garlic naan is one of several bread choices, and the sarso ka saag, mustard greens flooded with yogurt, is one of the more agreeable entree options on this rather spare but inexpensive ($13) thali. 815 Newark Avenue, near Tonnelle Avenue, Jersey City, NJ

A round tray with little cups of curry and rice in the middle. — Goat thali at Bhanchha Ghar in Jackson Heights.

Goat thali at Bhanchha Ghar

Ablaze with colored lights underneath the elevated subway tracks, Bhanchha Ghar is Jackson Heights’s most prominent and accessible Nepali restaurant. Seven thalis are available, including three involving goat. If you are fond of such condiments as chutneys, pickles, and aromatic herbs, this is a great place to get a thali. The plain goat thali ($15) comes with a series of small side dishes. 74-15 Roosevelt Avenue, near 74th Street, Jackson Heights

A round metal tray with indentations. — Gujarati thali at Sukhadia’s in Iselin, NJ.

Gujarati thali at Sukhadia’s Fresh Kitchen and Indian Bistro

Sukhadia’s is a strictly vegetarian chain with branches dotted around New Jersey, North Carolina, and Illinois, specializing in sweets and savory breakfasts and lunches. The Gujarati thali ($18) reflects the cuisine of India’s westernmost state and features, among many other things, spicy buttermilk, a savory dish of chickpeas, a pea fritter, and roti served with chunks of unrefined sugar. 1507 Oak Tree Road, near Magnolia Road, Iselin, NJ

A round tray with cups of curry and three fluffy flatbreads. — Mithaas may be the best place to get a vegetarian thali in Jersey City.

Lucknowi thali at Mithaas

The centerpiece of this thali ($15) is the puri, along with several vegetarian curries, and a gulab jamun for dessert. Mithaas is not only one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Jersey City, it also offers a regional thali special every day. 795 Newark Avenue, at Herbert Place, Jersey City, NJ

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